Woods

What it is

“Woody” covers a wide spread. Cedarwood is dry and pencil-shaving clean. Sandalwood is creamy and soft; the classic Indian sandalwood is scarce, so perfumers also use Australian sandalwood and synthetic sandalwood materials. Vetiver is technically a grass root, smelling earthy, smoky and green. Patchouli is a leaf oil that reads dark and damp-earth.

Woods are mostly heart-to-base notes. They give a fragrance structure, a dry “frame” for brighter notes to sit on.

How it wears

Steady and long-lasting, usually moderate in projection. Woods rarely shout; they hold.

On their own woods can feel austere. With citrus they read fresh and office-friendly; with vanilla or amber they warm up for evenings.

Bench tips

• If you want one “does everything” bottle, a citrus-woody or aromatic-woody scent is the classic answer.
• Vetiver-heavy scents can smell sharp in the opening and much softer an hour later. Judge them on the dry-down.
• Woody notes suit cooler months but light woods (cedar, citrus-woods) work all year.

Plays well with

Notes that often share a bottle with woody notes. Each has its own file.

How to layer scents